Quarter rounds are a very innovative way to cover gaps and protect your wall or flooring from acquiring cracks or dents between them. They also give more life to dull walls and flooring. This is why you can see quarter rounds in almost every home.
Learning how to install quarter round might seem easy, but then, when you try actually to do it, there are lots of things you must take note of first. Things that would make your quarter round clean and accurate. Today, we are featuring an easy step by step guide on how to install quarter round.
Things You Will Be Needing
Now, before you start on this do it yourself quarter round installations, there are some things you will need. Here are the essentials:
- Miter saw – you can choose to use either manual miter saw (that comes with a box as a guide) or the electric one. However, it is preferable to use manual miter saws for small moldings. This can you give you more accuracy, especially if you’re a beginner.
- Pencil – this is the best marker you can use that would not leave a permanent mark/stain on your quarter round molding.
- Finish or brad nailer/electronic handheld drill – any finish or brad nailer, or even electronic drills where you can attach or detach the end with can work.
- Wood glue – this will be used to glue the last portion of your quarter rounds (especially parts that can’t be nailed in).
- Large bolt – the opposite end of the bolt can be used to set nails to the quarter round with a hammer.
The Steps for How to Install Quarter Round
Step 1: Make your markings and measurements.
Again, we do not advise you to use any other writing tools to mark your quarter round moldings with, other than a pencil. This is because a ball-point pen or marking pen will only leave permanent stains and marks on the quarter round.
Align the molding on the portion of the post, wall/flooring or corners where you would be putting it on. Carefully mark the cutting point of the molding with a pencil. It does not have to be exact. You are only marking it down to avoid cutting in the wrong direction.
Step 2: Cut the molding.
If you will only be cutting out small moldings, it is best to use a manual miter saw. The box that comes along with it has angled guides to help you make straight cuts. Just align the molding with the needed edge and follow the cut point like a ruler.
However, be careful not to cut exactly on the surface of your marking. Be sure to leave a bit of an allowance. This is to make sure that you do not cut the molding too short. Remember, if you’ve already cut off the mark, chances are, it’s going to fall short of its actual size.
Step 3: Set the first angle in place.
Set the first angle in place to make sure that it is the right size and angle. However, do not nail it in or glue it on first. The first angle has to remain movable until you’ve cut the second edge and set it in place.
This is to avoid making permanent, irreparable mistakes, in the case of emergencies. Like the molding being a little too long, short or off angle.
Step 4: Cut the second angle.
The opposite edge of your first molding should be exactly 90 degrees away to make sure that they form an L or a V-like structure. Simply do the same procedure as the first two steps.
Mark the molding and cut it using the miter saw and its box as a guide. Again, be careful not to cut too short or too long. The more mistakes and adjustments you try to make, the less accurate it is going to become.
Step 5: Nail the molding carefully.
Now, the easier part is nailing down the molding. Simply take your nail and finish/brad nailer to do the job. However, be careful not to damage any of the nails or the wood molding itself as you finish this process.
Then, set the nail with a hammer and a bolt to avoid having those unwanted sharp/protruding edges from the nail.
Step 6: Prepare the return piece if needed.
The back section is a crucial part, especially if there’s still a gap between the two pieces. Similar to the first two parts, the return piece has to be carefully angled, marked and cut.
However, unlike the first two, return piece does not have to have an allowance. This is because it will run directly into a corner, flat against the wall. Just make your markings from bottom to top (never top to bottom) lightly with a pencil.
Imagine it again, forming a 90-degree angle with the first two pieces. Then, of course, cut the return piece using the manual miter saw. Small as it is, you can still actually use the box as a guide to cutting the return piece.
Step 7: Glue the return piece on.
Because the return piece is tiny, it doesn’t have to be nailed in anymore. Nailing it would only crush or damage the piece. Just use a wood glue on the return piece.
Add only one drop of wood glue because adding a lot would only ruin the molding and make it look messy. And when you finally attach it, be careful as it will be hard to take it out.
At the End of the Day
Do it yourself projects can only be fun and worth it if you execute them correctly and finish the project successfully. Do to this; it is crucial that you follow the instructions carefully. We cannot emphasize enough how skipping even just one direction can affect the whole project.
This is very applicable to quarter round installations. Installation is very easy; it’s cutting and marking out cutpoints that you need to be most careful with.